Nearly half a bicycle

Dry cleaner's shop in London with many bikes stacked up for sale outside on the pavement. Two kids are in front of the shop

The atomic theory in Kilburn

This place (on Kilburn High Road) has been morphing steadily from dry cleaner’s to bike shop over the last few years. I remember being surprised one morning to see a few kids’ bikes lined up for sale outside but I’d say the shop is now approaching 50% bike shop. You can still see the dry cleaning hanging in the shop, though, so the old function is obviously clinging on. I imagine a bitter conflict in there, between the older sibling who wants to keep the dry cleaner’s going and a more entrepreurial younger one who wants to get into bikes, the coming thing (something about athleisure too – who gets anything dry-cleaned these days?).

In The Third Policeman, an absurdist classic from weird Irish civil servant, journalist and fantasist Flann O’Brien1, set in an unnamed rural community in Ireland before the war, one of his characters meditates on ‘the atomic theory’, which was still pretty new at this point: the surprising idea that matter is actually made of tiny particles called atoms and that, at their boundaries, objects might actually give up some of their atoms in a kind of exchange, blurring their edges a bit.

Sergeant Pluck, senior officer at the police barracks in this community, who keeps up with the latest ideas, has convinced himself that he sees evidence of the atomic theory at work in some locals who spend a little too much time on their bikes2 and are thus taking on something of their nature:

“Michael Gilhaney,” said the sergeant, “is an example of a man that is nearly banjaxed from the principle of the atomic theory. Would it astonish you to hear that he is nearly half a bicycle?”

If I had time I’d expand on this: I’d try to give you something of the awkward status of science after Einstein in post-independence Ireland, dominated by an atavistic Catholic church. Like other small European Catholic nations in this period, Ireland was self-consciously backward, priggishly anti-modern. It took the State decades to overcome its self-satisfied stance on, well, everything.

O’Brien was different: a modernist but also a devout Catholic, deeply sceptical about the actual modern. He often took the church’s side in his columns for the Irish Times3 (which he wrote pseudonymously because he retained his full-time job in the Irish civil service, an institution that retained essentially its colonial form for decades after independence). In 1942, for instance, he somehow managed to attend a lecture by Professor Erwin Schrödinger at the new Institute for Advanced Studies in Dublin4 in which the Austrian Nobel Prize-winner, in passing, threw some shade on the idea of causality. Your man was not impressed and wrote, in his column:

“I understand also that Professor Schrodinger has been proving lately that you cannot establish a first cause. The first fruit of this Institute, therefore, has been to show that there are two Saint Patricks and no God.

O’Brien was a brilliant writer, a self-conscious European modernist and an unembarrased advocate for new modes. I hoovered this stuff up when I was an adolescent: he had the oddness and the sly, disorienting humour kids like me were all looking for then. It was Kafka, Burroughs, B.S. Johnson, Vonnegut, Angela Carter and all the other weirdos. But O’Brien was different, more than an oddball: he was a conservative Catholic from the outer fringes. A lot of his stuff was buried and not published until decades later when rediscovered by publishers from the metropole who urgently needed more of this kind of borderline psychedelic stuff in their lists. His rhythms, his alienating settings and his humour could have come from Joyce or Beckett but he’d have run a mile if you’d tried to connect them or to recruit him to a scene or a movement.

His Catholicism meant that O’Brien couldn’t entertain or play with the new, scientific ideas in the way these atheist artists did. He would never have claimed that freedom. The atomic theory was just the kind of idea you can see animating a passage from Joyce but in O’Brien it can only be mocked. This idea, that objects might exchange matter, even at a tiny scale, is, to state the obvious, a profoundly anti-Catholic idea: a kind of blasphemous, material transubstantiation and a denial of the distinctness of God’s creations. It must have upset him profoundly.

Meanwhile, in Kilburn – still the centre of the Irish community in London – I might add that I only know about Sparkling Laundry and Cleaning myself because I cycle past it several times a week on my epic commute5. I had a conversation with my doctor only this morning about the possibility I might be taking on something of the bicycle myself.


  1. I’ve called him Flann O’Brien here but he was born Brian O’Nolan (Brian Ó Nualláin), wrote under several names and his Irish Times byline was Myles na gCopaleen. Wikipedia says he wrote science fiction under other names and some more recent collections have included stories by John Shamus O’Donnell, an Amazing Stories contributor who may or may not have been the same man. ↩︎
  2. Don’t forget, in this period the bicycle was also a symbol of the modern: a weapon, a hyper-efficient transportation device, a liberatory technology. ↩︎
  3. O’Brien’s Cruiskeen Lawn columns were a cult read with the Irish Times’ elite readers. They’re often about something of immediate interest in Ireland at the time of publication but they’re some of the smartest and funniest newspaper writing you’ll ever read – and they have become a model for much of this kind of stuff since. Try the collection Best of Myles. ↩︎
  4. Ironically Prof Schrödinger had been brought to Dublin in 1939 by Éamon de Valera as part of an effort to modernise the country’s creaking university system. ↩︎
  5. I might also, self-indulgently, tell you that I’ve occasionally taken as a subject for some poems Quex Road, a stub of a road that links Kilburn High Road with West End Lane a bit South of here.
    ↩︎

1998, the last time New York City had the correct amount of visual chaos

It was the end of history but it was before 9/11, before the dot.com crash, a whole decade before the Great Recession

Zuckerberg was still at school. I was in New York. I had a beeper and an answering service, there was a tiny office with a desk and a chair and no one in it. I carried a Powerbook G3, a preposterous Powerpoint deck and yawning self-doubt. TBH I spent more time in Strand Books than selling the proposition and soon enough I closed the New York ‘office’ and retreated to the archipelago.

A dog leans out of the passenger window of a pickup in  heavy traffic at the intersection of 6th Avenue and West 37th Street in Manhattan in 1998
A 1998 photo of International General Merchandise Inc, a grandly named store at 426 Broadway, NY, NY, that sold electronics, sunglasses, bags.
A 1998 photo of Pearl River, a famous Chinese restaurant on Canal Street in lower Manhattan
A Freezer Fresh ice cream truck in Manhattan in July 1998
Sneakers, a sportswear shop on Broadway in Manhattan in 1998
Sbarro, Italian pizza chain, at Times Square, New York, late at night in 1998
A busy scene at an intersection on West Broadway, Manhattan in 1998
Yellow cab close-up, late at night in New York, 1998
Jacob Wiesenfeld, a textile store in Manhattan in 1998
A hotdog restaurant in New York in 1998, the signs outside reference Mayro Giuliani's campaign for more politeness in the city
Shops and signs in New York CIty, 1998
New Moda Custom tailoring, a store in Lower Manhattan in 1998
A Burger King and a yellow cab in midtown Manhattan late at night in 1998
A laundromat in Manhattan, New York, 1998
A $3.00 car wash in midtown Manhattan in 1998
Taxis, trucks and limousines in traffic, viewed from above, New York City, 1998
Plastic Land, a shop in midtown Manhattan in 1998
A neon sign in the window of Galaxy Deli Restaurant in midtown Manhattan in 1998
A blimp passes over lower Manhattan in 1998
Close-up of a yellow cab in New York CIty in 1998
A parking sign and a huge painted billboard in midtown Manhattan in 1998. The Met Life building can be seen at top left.
Signs for AAAAAA Ace Paper Box Corp and AAAAAA Ace Creative Packaging in midtown Manhattan in 1998
Mary's Video Supplies on West 23rd Street, Manhattan in 1998
A sign that shows the State of New York registration number of a car workshop in Manhattan, New York in 1998
A 1998 photograph of Ennio Jeweler, a shop in midtown Manhattan with signs in lovely mid-century commercial typefaces

These photos were all taken with a neat little Canon APS camera. There are more – lots more – on Flickr.

Nifty OSX photo stitcher

Panoramic photo of the shop window of a hat shop in Soho in London, taken using a photo sticher app on an iPhone

I’m having fun with a nicely put-together OS X photo stitcher called Double Take. The Soho hat shop pic is made from three originals stitched together – can you see the join? I’m really in awe of the quality and completeness of the kind of OS X shareware/freeware I’ve been downloading lately – and this one costs much less than a tenner.